The Stüssy Varsity Jacket
20/11/22 | 3-5mins | Fashion History
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A stalwart of the industry, Stüssy have managed to persistently disturb the status quo of the fashion industry. Akin to streetwear’s tinnitus, it never stops making noise, even if it isn’t the loudest of that era. From its inception in the 80s, Shawn’s brand has been constructed on connections, community, and forethought. The first piece of focus is one which Stüssy’s legacy has been built upon; the varsity jacket.
Let’s take it back to the era of the International Stüssy Tribe (or I.S.T. for short). With Shaun, as expected, ignoring conventionality, he decided to create a group of tastemakers from within the scene. This was to continue Stüssy’s role as a community hub, not just a logo on some tees. It became a cultural collective. Being invited to the tribe was seen as seal of approval by Mr Stüssy, something that most creatives could only dream of. With Keith Haring and Hiroshi Fujiwara part of the collective, among many others, it is still having its effect felt in full force over 40 years later.
Every member of the International Stüssy Tribe was provided with a custom made Stüssy varsity jacket, with personal touches, and their associated chapter store (London, New York, or Tokyo at the time). This jacket was emblazoned with Stüssy International Tribe branding, coming in a woollen and leather construction, with it all tied together in a classic varsity bomber style. Try as you might, without a Shawn Stüssy issued I.S.T. jacket, you weren’t part of the tribe. You might think this is comparable to what Nigo is doing with his “I Know Nigo” collective… I wonder where he got that from?
In the modern era of Stüssy, while the tribe appears to have become another part of the brands colourful history, the varsity jacket still plays a role congruent to what it once did, even if in a different form. Now, it is only brought out on special occasions. One of which is to celebrate major anniversaries of the tribe, and the other is to co-sign other brands in the industry, just like with members of the I.S.T. Brands like Our Legacy, Denim Tears, BAPE, and most recently, Dries van Noten, have all received their own varsity jacket, and it is their way of giving props to tastemakers of the current era.
The fashion community quite often disregards Stüssy as a brand of influence and importance in the current day, but it has carved a path for the success of a multitude of other brands in the current day. So, before you denounce the next Stüssy tee you see walking down the street, think about the tribe. Be cognisant of the fact that you probably wouldn’t be wearing what you are today without that illegible scribble being printed onto tees in 1979.
