20471120

At first glance, this string of characters, or number to be more precise, could mean a plethora of things to the uninitiated. From an 8-figure salary to a phone number. Without any context it means nothing and everything. But in this context, it has a very specific meaning. The 20th of November 2047. To the creator, this date was non-specific but very significant. He had hoped by this time, that the world would progress to a place of extreme diversity and individualism in fashion and beyond.

It is a string of characters which is quite often found in the darkest corners of Grailed. This is especially within listings from prevalent Japanese archive marketplaces, where late 90s/early 00s Harajuku styles run rife. Unfortunately, articles of clothing from this brand are few and far between. It is, however, used alongside Beauty Beast and Hysteric Glamour (other Harajuku style fashion houses) in descriptions to categorise pieces on Grailed into this genre. The label has undoubtedly had a major influence in this sphere, although a quick google search would indicate an underappreciation for 20471120's role in Harajuku style and wider Y2K fashion trends.

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20471120 via Grailed

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Founded by Masahiro Nakagawa and LICA in 1992, it was originally named Bellisima. This lasted until 1994, where the copyright issues required a change, which resulted in the name becoming something much more intriguing. According to an artist’s statement from 2015, Nakagawa was inspired by the idea of clothes as transformational, while being integral to confidence and personality. This, in conjunction to his deep interest in anime, superheroes (specifically Ultraman) and monsters from a young age, created a foundation for the label. As he grew, he became enthralled with designers pushing boundaries, such as Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier, gravitating to them both physically and in design aesthetic. This resulted in 20471120 becoming a nuanced children's uniform for adults, transforming them back to their childhood selves in a sense.

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Outfits Styling 20471120 via Tokyo Fashion

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The aesthetic juxtaposed a whimsical mix of proportions, colours, and design, with some more sinister detailing which corrupted the innocence of the pieces, akin to growing up. This is spearheaded by their most popular character, Hyoma. He is a styleised cartoon superhero, who has "Violence" and "Sex" tattooed on his face. Or even the "Double Sex" ensemble, which playfully multiplied the number of pockets by 3, while at the same time displaying a vulgar reinterpretation of a vintage Levi's label. Nakagawa's designs were quick to take over the streets of Harajuku, becoming a favourite label for those at the heart of this style.

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20471120 "Double Sex" Ensemble via Myclothingarchive

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Both the playfulness and futuristic aesthetic were somewhat constrained by the bounds of clothing, so when 20471120 brought their collections to the runways in Tokyo and Paris Nakagawa and LICA's vision was able to be captured in full. Most evident in their 1998 Show "Yikes" in Tokyo, it blurred the lines between collection debut and public entertainment. Starting with models landing in a helicopter, the event displays a chaotic mix of characters performing circus acts, playing, and interacting with the crowd. This imagery was akin to the mind of a child. This was interjected, at random, by a runway-style display of their new collection. A mixture of costumes and 20471120 pieces were used, often difficult to differentiate between the two. This brought critical acclaim and was very progressive for the time.

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20471120 SS98 "Yikes" Runway Show Preview via YOURFASHIONARCHIVE

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This ability to transform a space was continued into their boutique spaces, with a complete transportation of the shopper to 20/11/2047, using playful Hyoma signage, themed rooms and decor, and futuristic lighting. These combined to piece together a shopping experience which, again, blurred the line between consumerism and experience, a common theme for 20471120.

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20471120 Boutique Storefront via Le Petit Archive

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Closing its doors in 2003, the label slowly progressed into the deepest corners of fashion internet and is now in the hands of a few dedicated archive connoisseurs. With brands like Heaven by Marc Jacobs becoming increasingly popular and the Harajuku/Y2K aesthetic being something people are reclaiming currently; it may be in line for a vintage resurgence. Although, it currently lies unappreciated by the mainstream, and forgotten by those who choose to dress themselves in a style that 20471120 pioneered. Hopefully its legacy can live on in some capacity until the 20th of November 2047.